Collecting Verdura: A Guide to the Duke's Jewelry

Fulco di Verdura was a Sicilian duke who became one of the most influential jewelry designers of the twentieth century. His pieces are colorful, witty and very wearable, and they still look modern today. Here is what we tell clients who are starting to collect his work.

From Palermo to Paris to Fifth Avenue

Verdura was born in Palermo in 1898. In the late 1920s he went to work for Coco Chanel in Paris, first on textiles and then on jewelry. The enamel cuffs set with a jeweled Maltese cross that he designed for her became one of the most recognized jewelry designs of the century.

He moved to the United States in the 1930s, worked with the jeweler Paul Flato in New York and Hollywood, and opened his own salon on Fifth Avenue in 1939. His clients included Cole Porter, Greta Garbo and much of New York society. Verdura retired in 1973, and the house still operates in New York today.

What makes a Verdura piece

Verdura thought like a painter. He chose stones for their color and how they worked together, and he was happy to set a fine gem next to something humble if the result looked right. A few things show up again and again in his work:

• Yellow gold, used generously. He favored warm gold at a time when platinum and white diamonds dominated.
• Natural objects. Real seashells mounted in gold and gems are among his best-known designs. The lion's paw scallop shell was a particular favorite.
• Bold color. Turquoise, citrine, amethyst, tourmaline, cabochon sapphires and rubies, often combined in one piece.
• A sense of humor. Wrapped hearts, knots, leaves and animals, made with the same care as a serious jewel.

What to look for when buying vintage Verdura

• Signature: pieces are usually signed Verdura. Many are also numbered.
• Construction: the gold work should be solid, with careful finishing on the back. Shell pieces should have shells that are securely mounted and free of cracks.
• Condition of soft materials: shells, turquoise and enamel are softer than gemstones. Look for chips, wear on high points and any signs of repair, and ask your dealer about them directly.
• Period: pieces made during Verdura's own lifetime are the most sought after. A knowledgeable dealer should be able to tell you roughly when a piece was made.

Why collectors love it

Verdura sits between the Paris houses and the bolder American jewelers. His designs have a strong personal style, the craftsmanship is excellent, and the pieces are meant to be worn every day. A Verdura brooch on a jacket or a pair of his earrings is easy to recognize once you know the look.

We currently have a Verdura Lion's Paw brooch with diamonds and turquoise, a classic example of his shell designs. You can also browse other signed makers in our collection. To see a piece in person, book a private viewing at our gallery in Rockefeller Center.