How to Care for and Store Vintage Jewelry

Vintage jewelry has already lasted decades, and with some simple care it will last many more. Older pieces need a little more attention than new ones, because some materials are delicate and some settings have seen years of wear. These are the habits we recommend to our clients.

Wearing it

• Last on, first off. Put jewelry on after perfume, hairspray and lotion, and take it off before you undress at night.
• Take rings off for work with your hands. Gardening, the gym, cleaning and cooking are the most common causes of chipped stones and bent prongs.
• Keep it out of the pool and the ocean. Chlorine and salt water are hard on gold, and they can damage pearls, coral and turquoise.
• Use the safety catch. Many vintage brooches have a simple catch. If yours has a safety catch, close it every time.

Cleaning at home

For diamonds, sapphires and rubies set in gold or platinum, warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap and a very soft toothbrush is all you need. Rinse well and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

Some materials need gentler treatment. For these, wipe with a soft damp cloth and dry right away:

• Pearls
• Emeralds, which are often treated with oil
• Opals, turquoise, coral and lapis
• Enamel, which you will find on many pieces by David Webb and Van Cleef & Arpels
• Natural shells, such as the shell brooches made by Verdura

Do not use ultrasonic or steam cleaners on any of these, and avoid them for any antique piece unless a jeweler has checked it first. Very old jewelry with closed backs, foil behind the stones or delicate settings should not be soaked.

Storing it

• Keep pieces apart. Diamonds will scratch other stones and gold. Store each piece in its own soft pouch or in a lined box with dividers.
• Lay pearls flat. Hanging a pearl strand stretches the silk thread over time.
• Close necklaces and bracelets before putting them away so the chains do not tangle.
• Keep original boxes. A maker's box protects the piece and also adds to its value if you ever sell it.
• Avoid extreme heat and very dry air, which can harm pearls, opals and organic materials.

Regular check-ups

Once a year, have a jeweler look at the pieces you wear most. They will check prongs, clasps, hinges and pin stems, and spot a loose stone before it falls out. Pearls that you wear often should be restrung every few years, with a knot between each pearl.

A quick test you can do at home: hold a ring or earring close to your ear and tap it gently. If you hear a stone rattle, stop wearing it until it has been checked.

Paperwork and insurance

Keep your receipt, any certificates and good photographs of each piece in a safe place. For valuable jewelry, a current insurance appraisal is worth having, especially for signed pieces whose value has changed over the years.

Questions about a piece?

If you are not sure how to care for something you bought from us, ask us. You can also book a private viewing at our gallery in Rockefeller Center, and if you are thinking of parting with an inherited piece, read how to sell inherited jewelry or visit our Sell Your Jewelry page.